Although
some of Loja's typical dishes, such as meat pie, trout pie, or crayfish soup, are not
frequently cooked these days, many others are. Among them: fresh anchovies in a marinade; "cuchifrito
de chivo", made of kid (young goat) meat fried with red pepper, garlic and white
wine; "sobrehusa", green broad beans fried with onions, garlic, and
poached eggs; "menuillos" small snails, typical of St. Mark's day (25
April), which are cooked in a broth with walnuts, mint and red pepper. In the past, women
used to sell them on the streets, in big pots hanging from their arms. 
And
also the "remojón" (a sort of salad) with boiled potatoes or oranges,
usually served with grilled cod; green broad beans fried with ham; the almost daily "porra"
(a tasty seasoned tomato sauce thickened with breadcrumbs) which, by the way, is delicious
served with French fries, and, of course, a great variety of "gazpachos"
(a sort of cold soup), the typical summer dish in our region. For instance, a first one
made with smashed green broad beans, a second one made with broad bean meal, a third known
as "ajo blanco" with almonds, another called "pimentón",
with tomato, pepper and cucumber, and, finally, another called "de flojas"
or "jeringuilla" which is made using only water, vinegar and salt. A
common feature to all these varieties is their due seasoning with garlic.
Regarding home-made pastries, our sponge cake has always been famous. It is baked in two, three or even four layers; it is mentioned in the minutes of a Council meeting from 1760, as being made by the nuns of Santa Clara. They also prepared a dessert known as "gloria", "dulce de cucharilla" or "bienmesabe", referring all these names to the same dish. From these ancient times are the numberless recipes left to us by the good old Father Vega in his
manuscript, many of which are still widely in use, for
instance the "buñuelos de viento", "pestiños",
"piñonates", coated with sugar or honey, and made with the same kind of
dough, "rosquetes de las monjas"; lard tarts and the "roscos
de agua", ring-shaped cakes, which are made for Easter Week, with a score of
eggs for each half a pound of sugar. And also the "mantecados", the typical
Christmas buns, particularly the ones known as "de San Antonio". Apart
from these, he mentions many other varieties which are becoming rare, not only because
their ingredients are difficult to find in a supermarket nowadays, but mainly due to the
time demanding process of elaboration and baking. However, there still are some skilful
women who can prepare them. Examples of these rare varieties are "torta
real", with almonds and eggs; the "torta de tocino", with
lard; and the "cuajado" with almond, bacon, lard and several spices.
Nevertheless the well-known "roscos de Loja" (ring-shaped cakes made with sponge, filled with egg and coated with meringue), whose fame is most deserved, are not mentioned in Father Vega's recipe book. And, since his research about local recipes was exhaustive, we must conclude that they were not baked in his times (XVIIIth century).
The first written reference about these famous cakes, appears on a letter dated from 23 September 1836, written by Don Manuel Martínez Escudero, a local civil servant , addressed to Don Francisco Escalera, from Málaga, administrator of a estate owned by his nephew, the Marquis of Camponuevo. In this letter we can read: "... but regarding the cakes known as Roscos de Loja, I have had them made to send you a basket when the courier Calle goes there, and, then , I will send you what you asked for (the recipe), as they are prepared in several ways but, in my opinion, the main thing is the oven, since the recipe has been taken to different towns and they were not able to make them well".
Don Manuel seems to have been reluctant to give the recipe, albeit he knew it, since in 1843 he writes in another letter to the same addresee that the cakes ordered "will be made in my home"; when he eventually gives the recipe to Don Francisco in 1844, he merely lists the ingredients and their price: sixty eggs, twelve pounds of flour, two pounds of sugar, the baker's pay, and the amount paid to the nuns of Santa Clara the meringue coating.
Also remarkable are the "pastelillos de Santa Teresa", a delicious pastry made with almonds, coated with meringue and cinnamon, and, as far as we know, Loja seems to be the only place in the province where such a dessert is made.